I categorized the indoor climbing gyms in Taipei and New Taipei city into three groups, based on their focuses. Most of the bouldering oriented gyms are bouldering only.
Bouldering Oriented Climbing Gyms
T-UP is no doubt the leading climbing gym providing the highest standard for this furnished industry in Taiwan. The bouldering routes and facilities are both high quality. It changes route every week in the area base, so climbers will never feel bored here. T-UP might be the only climbing gym with the most qualified and comprehensive bouldering routes (and change frequently). That’s why it is so crowded, as always.
The first floor is the main climbing area. Slab, overhanging and vertical faces are well allocated. The second floor is not always available if they are holding classes. Yet, it is a nice place for stretching, with mats. foam rollers, etc. The third floor is for kids.
Compare to other newly established climbing gyms such as T-UP or POGO, Redrock seems a bit age-old. However, it still has qualified routes and facilities. The best part of RedRock is it has various training facilities for climbers, such as campus boards, fingerboards, the moon board, and the pegboard. In addition, Redrock also provides bands, TRX, bars, and rings. Therefore, Redrock is a great place for advanced climbing training.
The walls are only 3 meters tall, which is good for those who are afraid of height; the warm-up and beta videos and app are friendly for beginners. Redrock also has challenging overhang routes for advanced climbers. Overall, this is an excellent gym for climbers at every level. For first-time visitors, please do check the photos in your Google Map, since people always ignore the entrance.
A budget small novice gym near Taipei 101 and Xiangshan. Located in CBD, you can imagine that the sports center is relatively small, but the owner did his best in this cramped room. The ticket is economical, which is good for one or two hour’s taste. Located in the sports center, remember to buy the ticket in advance at the counter.
To be honest, the entrance fee is overpriced. The owner does not change routes frequently enough. For some reason, the owner is notorious in the community. But if you want to practice roof climbing here is probably the best place: It has an easy climbing route. for practice, VB only. It also has different angles of slabs on one single route, which is pretty unique.
A small but high quality climbing gym. Maybe as small as Xinyi Climbing Gym.
It is a high quality climbing gym with top roping zone but bouldering is its focus. The route setters have their preference of heavy climbs: climbers need to have power even climbing simple routes. The walk from the MRT station to the gym is scary…not meaning unsafe but you will doubt that if you are on the right track because it looks like meddle of no where. Yes you are!
I haven’t visited this gym yet. But I heard from my community that this is a nice gym.
Just like its name, the climbing holds are small, which is a good place to practice crimps and minuscule footholds. Not a big gym, but it’s enough for a climber.
I haven’t visited yet. It is an unlucky bouldering gym that temporarily closed while opening due to pandemic.
The gym contains top-roping, leading, and bouldering. It used to serve speed climbing, but the auto belay is removed, so I would not consider it as a speed climbing wall. Yonghe Climbing Gym might be the most economical choice. Nevertheless, the leading wall is insanely difficult. The climbing holds are old school. Merely can you find jugs. The bouldering zone is satisfying but they do not change the route that frequently.
It takes 20 mins walk from the MRT station, but the public bikes are available since the bike stations are located at both terminals. The climbing gym is located inside the sports center. Purchase the ticket at the first floor counter first.
Top Roping Oriented Climbing Gyms
Most of the climbing gyms in this section is not that satisfying. They are alternative choices for climbers to be honest.
Not a satisfying gym actually. The killing part here is that it has two roof leading climbing routes.
Never been there before.
Y17 gyms adhere to strict rules that only the certified belayers are allowed to visit. The rope is installed, but due to the nature of the overhanging wall, seconding is more common. It has a public bike station in front of the building. Renai Metro Bus is another option since it is close to the bus station.
Haven’t visited yet.
Nangang Sports Center Climbing Gym
Leading Oriented Climbing Gyms
T-UP and Yonghe climbing gym are both nice places to practice lead climbing. T-UP Zhonghe is a better choice. Yonghe’s lead climbing routes are too difficult. I introduce Yonghe climbing gym in the bouldering section since I believe that the owner is put more effort into bouldering.
T-UP is of course the best climbing gym in Taiwan, but the price is the highest as well. It’s worth a day here, from challenging routes and high price perspectives. The core feature here is lead climbing, which is more than 65% of the walls. T-UP Zhonghe also contains top-roping and auto roping with auto-belay. Bouldering is available but more for warm-up. If you are a climber pushing limits, a squat rack and other training gear for climbers are available as well. Unlike the Wanhua branch, it has fewer climbers on the weekends if the weather is good enough. Climbers are more willing to enjoy outdoor climbing in Longdong.
Nothing to eat nearby except the convenience store. If you want to spend a day here, I highly recommend bringing your lunch. The second-floor lounge is a great place to enjoy your food and watch other’s climbs.